Heat pumps

If you’re looking to reduce the carbon emissions associated with heating or cooling your building, then a heat pump could be a good option. However, it’s important to understand the different types of heat pumps, their applications, financial aspects, and ongoing operational and maintenance requirements.
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Lighting

Most buildings require artificial lighting to some extent, and it's crucial to ensure that the lighting provided is of good quality and tailored to the specific tasks and occupancy of the building.
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Conventional heating

In this section, we will talk about condensing boilers, electric heating and how to improve your central heating systems.
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Solar thermal

Solar water heating systems, or solar thermal systems, use energy from the sun to warm water for storage in a hot water cylinder or thermal store. Because the amount of available solar energy varies throughout the year, a solar water heating system won’t provide 100% of the hot water required throughout the year.
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Energy storage

An energy storage system allows you to capture heat or electricity when it is readily available, such as from a renewable energy system, storing it for you to use later.

The most common energy storage systems include electric batteries, hot water cylinders and electric storage heaters.
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Solar PVs

A solar PV panel consists of many cells made from layers of semi-conducting material, most commonly silicon. When light shines on this material, a flow of electricity is created.
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Insulation

Topics covered in this section include walls and roof/loft insulation.

​This page will explore everything you need to know about Insulation to better understand whether it's an energy saving measure that could work for your organisation. Scroll to learn more, or click the button below to download the guide in PDF format. 

If you occupy premises that need to be heated, then improving the insulation levels can help to reduce the heating demand, which in turn will cut your energy bills and emissions. Insulation levels can be improved by adding layers of insulation to existing building elements such as walls, roofs and floors, and by replacing poorly insulated elements such as doors and windows with better insulated alternatives.

Heat loss can also be cut by reducing the amount of unwanted and uncontrolled draughts. Technically speaking this is not insulation, but it often goes hand in hand as part of a building upgrade, and ideally both need to be done to effectively minimise the heating requirement.

 

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Cavity Wall insulation
Cavity wall insulation 

If you occupy a building that is made of brick or concrete blocks, which was built between 1920 and 1980, then there is a good chance that it has cavity walls. This means the external walls were built as two separate walls with a gap or cavity in between. It is often possible to fill this gap with insulation sprayed through holes drilled in the outer wall. The insulation material is usually either mineral wool or polystyrene beads, but polyurethane foam may sometimes be used instead.

Where possible, cavity wall insulation is one of the most cost-effective ways to upgrade the thermal performance of a building.

Internal and external wall insulation 

There are many non-domestic buildings that do not have cavity walls, or where the cavity cannot be filled for technical reasons. These may include older brick buildings, where the walls were built as a single solid brick wall with no cavity, as well as newer buildings of various construction types such as steel frame. If there is no cavity to fill then a wall can be insulated on the inside or the outside.

The cost of insulating internally or externally is often much higher than the cost of cavity wall insulation, but the savings can be greater is there is often less of a limit on how much insulation can be applied.

Internal wall insulation

Internal wall insulation may involve fitting rigid insulation boards to the inside surface of the wall, building an additional stud wall filled in with insulation material such as mineral wool fibre, or sometimes by spraying foam insulation directly onto the inside surface of the wall.

Internal insulation:

•    Is generally cheaper to install than external wall insulation.
•    Will slightly reduce the floor area of any rooms in which it is applied (the thickness of the insulation is typically around 100mm).
•    Can be quite disruptive but can be done room by room.
•    Requires internal fittings to be removed and reattached and may require modifications to window and door frames.
•    Can make it hard to fix heavy items to inside walls – although special fixings are available.
•    Cannot be done before fixing any problems with penetrating or rising damp.

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Insulation
External wall insulation

External wall insulation involves fixing a layer of insulation material to the wall, then covering it with a special type of render (plasterwork) or cladding.
The finish can be adapted to fit in with the general look of the building, or with other nearby buildings.

External insulation:

•    Can be applied without disruption to your organisation.
•    Will not reduce the floor area of your workplace.
•    Will renew the appearance of outer walls.
•    Will improve weatherproofing and sound resistance.
•    Reduces the risk of condensation on internal walls.
•    Best installed at the same time as external refurbishment work to reduce the cost.
•    May need planning permission – check with your local council.
•    Requires good access to the outer walls.
•    Not recommended if the outer walls are structurally unsound and cannot be repaired.

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Insulation being installed in a loft
Roof and loft insulation

A significant portion of heat is lost through the roof in an uninsulated building. Insulating your loft, attic or flat roof is an effective way to reduce heat loss and reduce your heating bills.

Insulation options

If you have an accessible loft space that is easy to access and has no damp or condensation problems, it should be easy to insulate. You can lay rolls of insulation, usually mineral wool, between the joists and then another layer at right angles to achieve the desired thickness – 300mm is usually the recommended depth for mineral wool loft insulation. It is important to make sure the loft space is well ventilated to avoid condensation in the now colder loft, and to make sure any water pipes or tanks that sit above the new insulation are well insulated to avoid freezing. 

If you have a flat roof, or a pitched roof with a room directly beneath, or a loft that cannot easily be accessed, then you will need professional installers to suggest the best solution. This will usually involve applying a layer of rigid foam board insulation, and often requires the replacement of some of the existing internal or external finishing layers.

A detailed moisture risk analysis is usually required so an appropriate vapour control strategy can be applied to minimise the risk of internal condensation.

Indicative costs and savings

Straightforward loft insulation can be one of the cheapest insulation options available, maybe as low as £10 per square metre, plus any costs for increasing ventilation, draught-proofing access hatches etc. All other roof insulation options will be considerably more expensive and will require installers to visit before they can estimate costs for you.

Savings can be significant for a building that is heated regularly throughout the day, but will be very dependent on occupancy, heating system and building geometry.

Windows and doors

The thermal performance of windows and doors cannot be improved by adding a layer of insulation, but you can often make considerable saving by replacing old, single glazed windows and insubstantial external doors with newer, more efficient alternatives. The cost is generally higher than other insulation options, so the expenditure is often not recovered through energy bill savings alone. However, the additional benefits of comfort, improved appearance and reduced maintenance may make the investment worthwhile. If replacement is not allowed due to planning restrictions, or is too costly to justify the expenditure, then secondary glazing may be an alternative. This involves adding an additional layer of glass or polycarbonate to the inside of an existing window, trapping an insulating layer of air without the need to replace the window.

When considering modification or replacement of glazing it is worth remembering that, in an office environment, glare and overheating are often just as significant issues as heat loss. Adding shading, blinds and anti-glare coatings may be of more benefit to the occupants or may be useful additional measures to consider as well as any actions you take to reduce heat loss.

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Installation of windows
Insulation in action
Acharacle Community Centre

Alongside the installation an air source heat pump and renewables, the Acharacle Community Centre installed loft insulation and insulation in one of the largest rooms (lowering the ceiling and adding insulation above the panel boards).

Heat pumps

Heat pumps provide low carbon heat, and cooling, to many types of buildings across the UK.

​This page will explore everything you need to know about Heat Pumps to better understand whether it's an energy saving measure that could work for your organisation. Scroll to learn more, or click the button below to download the guide in PDF format. 

If you’re looking to reduce the carbon emissions associated with heating or cooling your building, then a heat pump could be a good option. However, it’s important to understand the different types of heat pumps, their applications, financial aspects, and ongoing operational and maintenance requirements. This knowledge can help you to decide when to choose heat pumps as an option for heating and ensures that the systems are installed and operated efficiently. 

What is a heat pump?

A heat pump works by taking heat from one location, raising the heat’s temperature, and moving the heat to another spot. A fridge works in a similar way. It takes heat from inside the fridge, moves it to the grill at the back of the fridge, and eventually releases that heat into the kitchen or room where the fridge is placed. When used to heat a building, the heat pump gathers heat from the outdoor air or ground, then brings it indoors to warm up the rooms using either a system of circulating water or air.

A heat pump uses electricity to collect heat energy, raise its temperature and pump that heat indoors, but the heat energy it supplies is much more than the electrical energy needed to power the system.

This makes heat pumps a more energy efficient way to heat a building than a traditional gas or oil boiler. It also produces far fewer carbon emissions than other heating systems.

What kind of heat pump should I get?

There is a wide range of heat pump technology available. An experienced heating, ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) engineer is best able to advise on what is right for your building following a site survey.  However, there are some key questions to answer to help you and your HVAC engineer determine whether a heat pump might be suitable, and if so, which kind.

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Key Questions for you and your HVAC engineer
Air to water heat pumps

An air-to-water heat pump transfers heat from the outside air to water.

This heated water can heat water circulating your building via radiators or underfloor heating. It can also heat water stored in a hot water cylinder for showers and hot water taps. 

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Air to water heat pumps
Air-to-air heat pumps

Air-to-air heat pumps transfer heat from the outside air, warming air that enters your building through a series of fan coil units, or ‘blowers’, or via ducted air.

Air-to-air heat pumps are sometimes referred to as air conditioning. While many people think of air conditioning as a way of cooling buildings, it can also be used for heating.

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Air to air heat pump
Ground source heat pumps

A ground source heat pump (also known as a ground-to-water heat pump) transfers heat from the ground outside your building to water. This heated water can heat water circulating your building through radiators or underfloor heating. It can also heat water stored in a hot water cylinder, ready to use for hot taps and showers.

Digging trenches for a ground loop

If you have the space, then you can have a ground loop system. The ground will need to be suitable for digging and accessible to machinery from a road entrance.

The area will need to avoid trees, as roots will cause problems when digging trenches.

The length of ground loop and trenches depend on the size of your building and the amount of heat you need. 

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Ground source heat pumps
Boreholes

If space is limited, it may be possible to drill vertical boreholes to gather heat. This is usually more expensive than digging trenches and usually needs a specialist ground (thermogeological) survey. The ground is generally warmer the deeper you dig, so these systems can be more efficient than ground loop systems.

Commercial buildings may require more than one borehole. A borehole is drilled only about 20cm wide, but somewhere between 75 and 200 metres deep. The depth of the borehole depends on your heat demand and the underlying geology.

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Borehole
Indicative costs and savings

Installation costs 

The cost of an air source heat pump installation varies depending on:

•    the size of heat pump or heat pumps.
•    the size of the property.
•    whether it’s a newbuild or an existing property.
•    whether you need to change the heat distribution system inside the property.

Because they require digging, ground source heat pumps are typically more expensive to install than air source heat pumps. In addition to the air source heat pump considerations, the cost of a ground source heat pump installation will also vary depending on the access to the ground and whether you choose trenches or a borehole to lay the ground loop.

Savings 

Commercial heat pumps have the potential to be a money-saving solution for businesses and organisations, the extent of the savings depends on the system being replaced and the efficiency achieved by the new system. When compared to traditional electric heating or gas-fired conventional heating systems, heat pumps can provide significant energy and carbon savings. They often outperform standard electric heating systems in terms of cost savings.

While they may also offer savings compared to gas-fired heating systems, this varies based on factors such as the purpose of the system (e.g., heating only, or both heating and cooling) and the relative costs of gas versus electricity your organisation pays. So, it's important to carefully consider these factors when evaluating the potential benefits of installing a heat pump for your building. 

How long does it take to install a heat pump?

Air source pumps are quicker and easier to install than ground source, as ground source pumps require a lot more planning and preparation. Depending on your building, the system chosen and the complexity of the installation, the work can take from a few days to a few weeks to be completed. 

Disruption during installation

Installing a heat pump may cause some disruption to your organisation, depending on how much work needs to be done.

Typical work in a heat pump installation includes:

•    Building a plinth outside for an air source heat pump or pumps to stand on.
•    Digging trenches or boreholes to install the heat pipe for ground source heat pumps.
•    Adding pipes through the wall to where your existing boiler is.
•    Installing or replacing a hot water cylinder.
•    Upgrading radiators, or air ducting, where needed.

While your organisation may decide to keep the building closed during the installation, it’s often possible to stay open as usual while work takes place.

Can I do this by myself?

Heat pumps are not a technology that you can install by yourself. You will need to talk to an installer who will assess your needs and evaluate your building before proposing which system could be right for you. Click here to learn more about this.

Heat Pumps in Action
Duns Swimming Pool

Duns Swimming Pool in Langtongate, Duns installed two air source heat pumps after receiving funding from the Scottish Borders Council. The new heating system and solar panels supply enough power for its heating and reduce the amount of gas needed to heat the pool’s water. Still, gas may be required to top up water temperatures during the winter months.

St Ninian’s RC Parish Church

St Ninian’s RC Parish Church in Dundee replaced its gas boilers with air source heat pumps alongside other improvements, including LED lighting, cavity wall and underfloor insulation. The savings achieved contribute to running costs for the community café that is open to the local community twice a week and where around 20-25 people attend for a free hot meal.

The Roy Bridge School House

The Roy Bridge School House is a volunteer run community facility providing a vital space for local youth groups, lunch clubs, meetings and workshops. A new heating system – an air source heat pump – was installed in the schoolhouse building to ensure that the building was well heated and would meet the required standards for public use. This allowed the space to once again be used all year round. The project aimed to install a new air source heat pump system which could be connected to the building’s existing underfloor heating system.

Findon Hall

Findon Hall replaced the boiler with an air-to-air heat pump and installed solar PV panels on its south facing roof to generate electricity.  These measures were estimated to save the Hall’s management committee £6,628 in energy costs, 45,209 kWhs in energy, and 9.5 tonnes of C02 a year.